The best guide to visit Amalfi and Sorrento Coast









mercoledì 26 maggio 2010

Amalfi

The glorious Maritime Republic of Amalfi, which spread its name all over the world thanks to the successful trade, is nowadays well-known as seaside resort, due to its natural beauties and mild climate. Amalfi overlooks the sea with its characteristic set of white houses on the rocks, narrow streets among arches, ancient towers to guard the town. It is a very picturesque town, characterized by enchanting panoramic views and cliffs rising sheer from the sea: a real Eden with a gentle climate, delightful beaches, buildings clinging to the rocky slope. The architectural value of its monuments, the beauty of the landscape and of the seaside, its traditions and food have made it an incomparable place. The origin of the town date back to the IV century, when a of a group of Roman families found a small village near the actual Palinuro, named Melphe. From there they continued to explore the nearest places and found a location with plenty of fresh water, where they decide to settle a colony: the village of people who came from Melphe, "a Melphe" in latin, the future Amalfi. After the fall of Roman Empire, it was the first town to establish commecial relations with the Eastern Roman Empire, carrying and selling in the whole Southern Italy many exotic and luxury goods as carpets, silk, spices, paper. Amalfi became an independent maritime republic, rich and opulent due to intense trade and cultural exchanges, and it was the first among the Four Maritime Republics.
The richness of Amalfi was so big that Guglielmo Appulo wrote that only this town was so rich of gold, silver and every kind of fabrics and it was visited by Arabians, Sicilians, Africans and Indians.
The city was also renowned for Flavio Gioia’s invention and development of the marine compass and the “Amalfitan Tables” - the first maritime legal code; it controlled the relations between ship's master and sailor, between sailors and traders. It was also during this time that mills of Amalfi began to produce paper rather than parchment. The paper was used for all the official acts and documents of the Court of the Duchy of Naples. The particular variety of Amalfitan lemon “the Sfusato Amalfitano” crossed the borders of Europe, and was exported throughout the world.
In the 12th century, after the Norman conquest, Amalfi lost its importance in the Mediterranean commerce and had to be content with a modest local role. The new dynasties ruling over Naples and the Southern Italy will have been supported in their conquests by other Maritime Republics (first Pisa and then Genoa) that will receive in exchange the monopoly of the international commerce. After a long period of decadance, in the 19th century Amalfi was rediscovered as a touristic and cultural destination by many foreign travellers, thanks to the new Romantic sensibility: so its landscapes, monuments, scenes of daily life, became cause of inspiration for painters, architect, writers coming from all parts of Europe.

From its prestigious past Amalfi keeps some important testimonies: on the cliff there is the former Monastery of Benedictine nuns, founded in the 10th century. At the entry to the town there is the magnificent Torre di San Francesco (St.Francis' Tower) today called “Torre Saracena” and upside is the ancient convent founded by St.Francis himself in 1222. Suppressed during the French Decade, it keeps a precious cloister. Annexed to the convent is the church of Sant'Antonio (St.Anthony) beautiful building right over the sea: with single nave, in the crypt there are some valuable frescos from 13th century. At the begnning of Viale delle Regioni (Regions' Promenade) there is the beautiful panel in ceramics by Cossa, monument for the achievements of Amalfi. Inside the Town Hall, a palace from the 16th century and formerly a monastery, are exhibited some remarkable antiques: the ancient coins (tarì), some nautical instruments, among which the compass (by tradition invented by Flavio Gioia from Amalfi); a rare copy of the Tabule Amalpphitane (Amalfi's Laws); the ancient banner and the clothes for the Historical Regatta, a contest among the rawing boats from the Four Ancient Maritime Republics.

The architectural and artistic values of its monuments and historical buildings, the indescribable beauty of its landscapes, its folklore and traditions have made, and still make, Amalfi a place without comparison, so much so that it has been said: “For an Amalfitan the day he goes to heaven is just like any other day”

Among the many monuments and historical-artistical evidence we indicate:

** The Duomo built about the 6th century and dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle whose remains are kept in the crypt. Its present facade, brilliant with mosaics, is in Oriental style; its bronze doors, the first ones to appear in Italy, were given to Amalfi by Pantaleone di Mauro Comite, a noble man from Amalfi who melted them in the 11th century in Constantinople where he lived and led the Imperial Party.
** Paradise’s Cloister set beside the Duomo was built the 13th century in Arabian style. It holds ancient sarcophagi, marble sculptures and mosaics.
** The Ancient Armouries of the Amalfi Republic, dating back to the 9th century, witness a glorious maritime past. ** The Salone Morelli where you can admire the 14 paintings by Domenico Morelli, reproduced in mosaic on the fronton of the Duomo; some paintings and sketches by the Amalfitan painter Pietro Scoppetta and the artistic pluteus holding the only existing specimen of the ``Tabula de Amalpha''; the costumes for the Regattas.

** The arsenal of the Republic, large room with two naves, interesting for the architecture, where exhibitions and meetings are settled.
** The Museo Civico (working days 9 am/1 pm free entrance) is in the council room of the Town Hall and keeps town- and nautical relics, in particolar the "Tavole Amalfitane", ancient code of maritime right.
** The Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto) is set in the charming bay of Conca dei Marini, 4 km away from Amalfi. This cave can be reached by road using a lift or stairs, or by sea. At the entrance a raft gets you in the cavern which, like magic, turns into a fantastic green temple full of figures, caryatids and bas-reliefs formed by dripping water from the vaulted ceilings, over the thousands of years. The most surprising thing, however, is offered by a number of sturdy stalagmitic structures rising from the sea which could never form if once the cave had not been on a dry ground. This stalagmites can now be found in the water because the bradyseism made the ground subside and carry into the see the lower part of the cavern. An interesting feature: the underwater pottery crib.

** The Museo della Carta (Museum of Paper) (ask for visiting to AAST tel. 089/871107) situated in an old paper mill of the Mill valley (Valle dei Mulini) is a suggestive exemple of hand-made paper processing and keeps books, manuscripts, engravings and prints.

Sea excursions

A boat trip in the Mediterranean to enjoy the scenic beauty of the Amalfi and Sorrento coasts and of the islands of the Gulf of Naples (Capri, Ischia and Procida) is indeed a unique experience.
La Dolce Vita Taxi Charter offers both leisure cruises and sea-taxi services, with services ranging from a quick transfer between any two jetties in the area to the rental of a whole ferry to host your private party! They will be also able to arrange guided day trips by sea as well as sail cruises along the coast.

Night clubs

Marana Club, P.zza Dei Dogi
Torre Saracena, Via Comite, 20

Restaurants in Amalfi

Da Gemma
Via Fra Gerardo Sasso 9,
Tel. 089 871345

Lido Azzurro
Lung.re dei Cavalieri
Tel. 089-871384

Il Doge
Supportico Ferrari
Tel. 089-872303

La Caravella
Via Matteo Camera 12,
Tel. 089 871029

Antica Osteria Bacco
Via G. B. Lama 9,
Tel. 089 830360

Taverna degli Apostoli
Via S. Anna 5,
Tel. 089 872991

Lo Smeraldino
Piazzale dei Protontini 1,
Tel. 089 871070

La Taverna del Duca
Largo Spirito Santo 26,
Tel. 089 872755Cheap

S. Giuseppe, Via Ruggiero II 4,
Tel. 089 872640

Da Maria
Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi 14,
Tel. 089 871880


Driving distances and approximate driving times

Praiano: 10 km / 6 miles / 14 min.
Positano: 16 km / 10 miles / 22 min.
Ravello: 12 km / 7 miles / 13 min.
Sorrento: 31 km / 19 miles / 38 min.
Pompeii: 52 km / 32 miles / 72 min.
Naples: 73 km / 45 miles / 80 min.
Caserta: 79 km / 49 miles / 82 min.
Rome: 278 km / 173 miles / 180 min.
Salerno: 26 km / 16 miles / 32 min.
Paestum: 65 km / 40 miles / 70 min.
Castellabate: 91 km / 63 miles / 91 min.
Marina di Camerota: 152 km / 95 miles / 165 min.

Sights to see

In Amalfi and Sorrento Coast area there is really quite a lot to do and see. Amalfi and its Cathedral, the charming Positano, Sorrento and its charateristic old town, the wonderful island of Capri, Ischia and Procida, the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, the churches of Praiano, Ravello with its amazing views and its famous music festival, the cities of Salerno and Naples, the small but beautiful villages of Cetara and Minori, the large beach of Maiori, Vietri and its famous ceramics. Also, close by, don’t miss to visit Paestum (about 1 hour and half driving from Amalfi Coast), whose Greek temples are one of the greatest archeological sites in the world, and the Royal place of Caserta (two hours driving away from Sorrento and Amalfi Coast), the pride of all the magnificent works and constructions by which the Bourbon dynasty adorned and modernized the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. Last but not least, the Cilento National Park (two hours driving from Amalfi) and its lovely seaside villages, located few miles off the usual tourists' routes of Amalfi and Sorrento areas, where you will find an enchanting mix of culture, art, nature and folklore. I will introduce each tourist spot mentioned above in the next posts, as well as the best way to get there both by car and by public transportation.